Iceland - A Land Like No Other
My weeklong trip to Iceland turned out to be one of the most fascinating weeks of my life. Having lived in various parts in the world, and traveled a fair amount outside of that, I thought I had a pretty good grasp of how beautiful the world was… I am happy to say that I was humbled by this beautiful little country.
I wrote this post for two main reasons; to summarize my experience for personal reflection, and to help you prepare for the trip in case you’re thinking of going. If you are in fact contemplating making this your next destination… DO IT! You will find a detailed price breakdown at the end of the post.
Arrival
“Flight crew, get ready for landing” the speaker crackled. Shelby opened the plane’s window cover. We were greeted by a grey and wet sky, unable to see through the fog as we descended into the clouds. Once we passed the grey shroud, a land like no other revealed itself. Rocky formations presented themselves with bright green moss laden with purple Arctic Lupins. The landing was soft and well executed.
We landed in Iceland Monday morning after a sleep-deprived overnight flight. Groggy and sleepy, we made our way through customs towards luggage pick up. Having done our research in advance, we took advantage of Duty Free to get several bottles of wine for our journey knowing the country is expensive. After a short wait, a staff member from our car rental company entered the lobby of the airport, and drove us to the rental site. Before we knew it, we signed off for the vehicle, and got the keys to what would be our home for the next six days – a compact Hyundai Elantra hatchback we later named Hyuvik. Prior to getting the car, the gentleman who was walking us through the insurance policy told us that we were not covered for a number of things; torn out doors due to wind, major damage due to reckless off-road driving, and damage due to collision with sheep. Wild and comical , I thought. We would later learn the seriousness of these words as we explored the country in its full glory.
Our first stop was Iceland’s capital - Reykjavik (pronounced “Reh-kah-vik”). Although we wished to embark on our journey into the wilderness right away, we were both sleep deprived and tired. As we entered the city, we found a quiet corner in an IKEA parking lot, and took a glorious two-hour nap in our seats. We woke up refreshed with renewed vigour, and decided to get a few Icelandic IKEA hot-dogs (They were garnished with a crunchy onion topping that made it a game changer).
Now that our bellies were full and our sleep batteries were charged, we felt ready to do some planning. We found a cozy coffee shop (Café Rost) in the city’s downtown and settled in. This was our first encounter to the prices we read about, with coffee costing over $6. One of our considerations for the day was the legendary Blue Lagoon, which we learned was often booked up and extremely expensive – at a rate of between $60-$110 per person for a dip. We were not keen on the price, and found more budget-friendly alternatives that we ended up visiting later in the trip. After mapping out all of the destinations we wished to explore, we were ready to go. On our way out of town, we made a quick stop at a local grocery store where we purchased Skyr yogurt, oatmeal, fruit and water. The locals were very friendly, and the store clerk recommended drinking tap water for the rest of the trip given that the bottled water was over $5 per 1.5L and was practically the same. This advice served us well, as we found tap water to be fantastic across the country.
Day One
Reykjadalur Hot Spring Thermal River
Our first destination set the bar high. In hindsight, this trail makes our top 3 in the category of most memorable stops. What made Reykjadalur such an exceptional and well-rounded gem is that it included all the elements that brought us to Iceland in the first place. The hike up to the thermal river was scenic, vigorous, and rewarding. Each corner turned brought new fascination, and the journey felt like a quest knowing that there was a pleasant destination waiting to be discovered. The fact that the skies cleared up was a bonus as it unveiled the full beauty of the range. At the end of the hike we were rewarded with an opportunity to soak in the pleasantly warm water prior to our trek down. With a soak and 4km hike each way, this adventure took us roughly three hours at a consistent pace.
As with every other stop on this trip, we were thankful that we invested into proper gear, as even in the summer the winds are powerful, cold, and the humidity penetrates to the bone for anyone who is ill equipped. A solid waterproof windbreaker made a major difference, making the weather elements a non-issue on this trek.
Geysir
Our second stop for the day was the second most powerful geyser in the world, a fascinating place. There are a number of pools bubbling with scorching temperatures, producing vibrant blue water. The geyser attracts many travellers for its impressive eruptions that occur every 10-30 minutes, shooting water up to 70 metres in the air. We stayed here for about an hour to witness a number of eruptions and explore the other sights the area had to offer prior to moving on to the Skjol Campgrounds nearby to wrap up the day.
Skjol Campground at ~1:00AM
The Skjol campgrounds had a central building that hosted bathrooms and showers, making it a convenient stop to top up our water bottles and follow a half-decent bedtime routine. It was a windy night that penetrated some gaps between the outer shell and the mesh, but our tent held up well and the sleeping bags kept us warm. We were glad that we chose to sleep with hats, gloves, and warm clothes on as it helped stay warm with the sneaky wind intrusions. The campsite cost roughly $25 per person for the night. We found the white nights of Iceland’s summers unique in that the sun never set, and there is daylight 24/7 so I would recommend bringing something to cover the eyes for some comfort and sense of darkness.
Day Two
On our second day we began developing a general morning routine. While getting ourselves ready and packing up the tent, we boiled water in a small pot using a pocket rocket for breakfast. To keep costs low, our breakfast included oatmeal that we made in small 500ml plastic cups, Skyr yogurt, and instant coffee that we brought with us from Canada. We typically ate lunch while driving (beef jerky that we brought from Canada, locally purchased fruit, and cliff bars). We brought freeze-dried Backpacker’s Pantry packs for dinner (They were easy to make with boiled water, tasted good, and kept us nourished). Each pack cost roughly $12 back home which we appreciated given that an average dinner in a restaurant cost over $40 per person in Iceland.
Sigridarstigur
Our first adventure on the second day brought us to the Sigridarstigur waterfall. This mighty glacial stream falls into a picturesque canyon that turns into a long running river. There is a path that leads right to the foot of the waterfall that allows visitors to appreciate its power. The waterfall creates a heavy mist that makes everything wet, therefore I recommend approaching it with waterproof gear. Being an easy location to access there were many tourists in the area, however it didn’t stop us from enjoying our visit to the site. We spent about 30 minutes marvelling the waterfall before moving on to our next destination.
Gljúfrabui & Seljalandsfoss
Our second visit consisted of two waterfalls, the Gljúfrabui & Seljalandsfoss. They were within a 5-minute walk to each other and each deliver a beautiful sight in different ways. The Gljúfrabui waterfall has a small cave that lets you get close and personal to the foot of the fall. It required us to walk across a path of rocks that lay among ankle to shin deep water. The inside of the cave looked magical with green moss covering the rocks with an intense sound of crashing water that creates a heavy mist of water.
The Seljalandsfoss is the bigger of the two falls. There is a path that lets you get behind the massive waterfall to admire its beauty. The whole walk takes roughly 15-20 minutes and lets you take some amazing pictures.
We ended up spending a total of about an hour and a half visiting both falls and would highly recommend this stop along the south coast.
Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool
Our next destination was the Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool. It was built in the early 1900’s by Icelanders to learn how to swim in response to a number of drowning incidents. As the country evolved, it became mandatory for civilians to learn how to swim prior to graduating high school. There are changing rooms and the pool had seemingly warm water, allowing visitors to enjoy a swim or a dip in the pool.
This stop ended up being one of our top three favourites, not necessarily because of the pool itself which we didn’t end up swimming in, but the stunning views around it. We ended up trekking past the pool area deeper into the mountain along the powerful river that runs in a valley. This adventure led us to some of the most beautiful sights we encountered on this trip. We tried to make it across the water at a further point to get to a small waterfall we saw in the distance, but there was no way to cross without walking through a powerful stream of frigid glacial water. We did not end up making it across the water, but in a future visit we will be coming better prepared and ready to make the leap
Dyrhólaey & Kirkjufjara Beach
Our last hiking destination for the day was the Dyrhólaey Peninsula. There is a winding F-road that leads to a lighthouse and peak from which the peninsula can be seen in its full glamour. Desiring to be respectful of the rules we ended up parking at the foot of the F-road, and hiking up the road over a 1-2 kilometer stretch to behold the sight. Once we have reached the lighthouse, we found a marked 1.5km trail that eventually led us downhill to Kirkjufjara beach. Although the beach itself was closed, the area offered various walking paths that provided new vantage points of the peninsula and the country’s beautiful south coast. There ended up being a parking lot near Kirkjufjara beach, so in hindsight if we wished to save some trekking time we could have parked there, and made our way up the short trail to the light house. Overall, this was a breath-taking destination that I highly recommend along the south coast.
Smidjan Brugghús
After a long day of adventuring, sight-seeing, and driving we decided to treat ourselves. We made a stop in the Smidjan Brewhouse in the small town of Vik. We each had an incredible burger (it made my top 10 list). The meat was cooked to a medium-well level, and the seasoning made the patty deliciously flavourful. This food experience was the perfect way for us to wrap up the day. I also enjoyed a local pint of Ástrikur Belgian pale ale with my meal – it had a delightful citrus aroma and a refreshing fruity tinge.
Vik Camping
After what felt like a hearty meal and a late night, we got settled in at the local campground called Vik Camping. It was a rainy night but we tucked ourselves under the cover of trees on the site and fell asleep comfortably. There are many birds that nest in the cliff nearby, so the night was noisy but didn’t prevent us from falling asleep. People who are light sleepers may have a harder time here. The facilities were okay, with a bathroom and showers for which you need to pay for.
Day Three
Hálsanfshellir Cave
We were adamant about visiting a beach on the southern coast, and unfortunately Kirkjufjara Beach was closed due to dangerous terrain (due to unstable cliffs hanging over the shore, and powerful waves that have taken a few lives). Hálsanfshellir Cave was the perfect compromise! This cave is located just a short drive from Vik, and attracts many tourists on its beautiful black sand beach. The columnar formations around the cave were unique, and you can hear the powerful roar of the waves from a safe distance on the shore.
Fjadrárgljúfur Canyon
Our next destination was one of the most breathtaking stops of the trip - the pictures don’t do it justice. The Fjadrárgljúfur Canyon was only formed around two million years ago (making it very young in geological terms). The green moss covered the rocky formations of the canyon in a stunning way, and there was a pleasant walking path to the top of the canyon that provided a vantage point of a few waterfalls further in. We were hoping to get down to walk along the stream, but unfortunately the access is prohibited and there is no easy way to get down. There were public bathrooms right beside the parking lot, which made this a great stop.
Jökulsárlón Glacier
After the canyon, we kept ranging east towards the Jökulsárlón Glacier. The effects of climate change are strikingly obvious as the glacier has significantly diminished in size in comparison to its former glory. Nonetheless, this was a neat stop that allowed us to get a glimpse of this neat landscape free of charge, making it a worthy visit. This place was quite packed with tourists as there is a local company that offers boat tours deeper in to the water.
Hoffell Hot Tubs
We got soaked at the canyon, and then got chilly at the glacier… Continuing to head east, stopping at the Hoffell Hot Tubs sounded like a perfect stop to soak in hot water and give our bodies a break. This mini-spa is run by a local family, and numerous tubs that range in temperature. There was an on-site changing room, an outdoor shower, and they keep it tidy. The view was very scenic, and the cool breeze felt refreshing while our bodies were submerged in hot water. This was a pleasant way to up what felt like a long, fun, and adventurous day before we made a stop in a nearby town to replenish our supplies.
Hafnarbudin Restaurant
We were aiming to be budget conscious, but we wouldn’t be able to forgive ourselves if we hadn’t tried local seafood. After the Hoffell Hot Tubs, we decided to stop at a little fishing town named Höfn for food. After doing a quick search, we found a local diner with a stellar rating called Hafnarbudin. We each ordered a lobster sandwich, sharing the adventure with our tastebuds. The taste was well worth the price!
Fossardalur Campsite
We wrapped up our day by getting set up at the Fossardalur Campsite. There was plenty of space, and the site is located near a beautiful fjord. This was the first night that we decided to sleep in the car rather than pitch a tent. After some tossing and turning, the sleep turned out to be manageable. This built the foundation for the rest of our trip as we kept sleeping in the car each following night to save the set-up time.
Day Four
Push to Egilsstadir
The drive along the south-eastern coast of the country was beautiful, especially a stretch in a valley surrounded by mountains. It is during this drive that we witnessed the power of Iceland winds. We stopped wanting to take some pictures. The wind was blowing forcefully towards the driver side of the car. I had to exert a surprising amount of effort to open the door on my side, which made us realize the door on the other side would likely be torn off by the wind if it wasn’t done carefully. We were right… I made my way over to the other side of the car to open the door with Shelby – with me leaning on the door from the outside while she pulled inwards while opening it. The fight against the wind was well worth it as we could capture some beautiful pictures and enjoy the view before continuing to Eglisstadir.
Egilsstadir is the largest settlement of the eastern region of Iceland, and the town itself was a pleasant. We made a stop at a local grocery store to stock up on supplies, got information regarding our next destination at gift shop, and set out on our way to the next destination – Laugarfell.
Laugarfell
The Laugarfell hot spring is an absolute gem of Eastern Iceland. At this point of our trip, we were far out of the typical tourist loop that attracts travelers to the south and some parts of the north. This solitude built a feeling of serenity that is hard to describe with words. We followed a seemingly endless winding road high in to the mountains to the point that we could see nothing but the peaks of the surrounding highlands. Our destination was a natural hot spring that was fashioned in to a small resort. The natural hot spring itself was left untouched, but it feeds a separate pool where the water a bit cooler allowing to put the body through a bit of a thermal cycle. With our bodies submerged and heated by mother nature, serene silence only broken by the singing of the strong and chilly winds, this was an out-of-world experience. We did not take any pictures during this part of our trip, so you will need to look it up online to see the beauty for yourself.
Hengifoss & Return to Egilsstadir
After a long soak and numerous thermal cycles we descended the mountains on our way back to Egilsstadir. We made a quick stop for a hike up a canyon split by a powerful waterfall called the Hengifoss. The mouth of the waterfall was lined by beautiful columnar rock formations that were created by a mighty flow of lava. After our quick trek, we made a quick stop in Egilsstadir for food, fuel, and ranged on to our final stop for the day- the town of Reykjahlid. It was late by the time we arrived in Reykjahlid, but it was worth the push as the town sits at the foot of the north’s most popular attractions.
Day Five
Grjótagjá Cave
Our first stop for the day was quick and easy – an ancient lava cave that hosts a beautiful hot spring that was once used for bathing until it became too hot. This cave was made famous by the show Game of Thrones where a scene was filmed (John Snow knowing nothing and breaking his Night’s Watch vow with Ygritte). As many other destinations that were easy to reach, there were many tourists and a small line-up to enter the cave, but it was a cool stop nonetheless.
Hverfjall Crater
After a short drive, we arrived at our next destination – a massive tephra crater that is believed to be the largest of its kind in the world. Tephra craters are formed by massive steam explosions that occur because of magma coming in contact with water. This attraction offered several different hikes and we found the climb surprisingly challenging due to the incline of the path.
Godafoss
By this point of our trip we have seen countless fascinating waterfalls so it was easy to feel like we have seen it all, but then the Godafoss took our breath way. This location was easy to reach, and we ended up staying here for quite a while, without being able to get enough. The waterfall gets its name from an important historical moment in Iceland’s history. A prominent Icelandic chieftain by the name of Thorgeir was entrusted with the decision of whether Icelanders should adopt the Christian faith, when the status quo was Norse paganism. He decided to accept Christianity, and disposed of his pagan god idols at the foot of this very waterfall - hence the name “god’s waterfall”.
Petting Zoo Daladyrd
The thought of doing horseback riding came up in conversation among us a number of times, but we found it difficult to build in to our trip. It is no secret that both Shelby and I love animals, and I couldn’t let us do the trip without having a chance to at least get a bit closer. I planned a surprise for Shelby and took us to this petting zoo! This was a really fun experience, and as you may be able to tell from the pictures there was no shortage of petting! We came across a small poster advertising a nearby café here that spontaneously led us to one of our favourite stops this trip - Kaffi Kù Farm and Café.
Kaffi Kù Farm & Café
This place is a hidden gem in the northern part of the country, and there is no way we would have come across it without seeing the ad at the petting zoo. Setting this Café as a destination provided us with many amazing experiences; the drive was extraordinarily scenic, the coffee was good, the food was delicious, and we learned about a modern method of farming! The ingredients used at this café are largely made on site, offering as fresh a meal as one can get.
This place started as a farm that evolved to be what is called a “Happy Cow Farm”. Here is how it works… The cows get milked by a robot! Each cow has a distinct identification that the robot recognizes to keep track of their health and history. Each cow decides when they wish to be milked by entering a stall that resembles an automatic car wash. The robot reads the identification, dispenses a few snacks, and begins the milking process. Some sneaky cows try to go for a second round once the process is over, but the robot can recognize this and won’t get activated until enough time passes in between each session. Furthermore, there are multiple machines throughout the building that cows activate to get brushed and scratched, and they have free access to roam outdoors. This destination offers a short tour describing the process and their history, allowing you to go down and hang out with the cows!
Push for Hellalaug
The rest of our day was a tenacious push and long drive to the Westfjords. This region of Iceland is the oldest past of the country - it is estimated that the land emerged roughly ten million years ago, while some of the newer parts are less than five million years old. Our goal was to reach the Hellalaug hot spring to take a dip first thing in the morning.
Day Six
Hellalaug
We did not have a chance to take pictures of the actual hot spring, but the image above should give an idea of the view. There is a small parking lot right by with a short descend to the spring, offering a beautiful view of a fjord. The picture was taken in the aforementioned parking lot. We took a quick dip to start our day, had our coffee, fuelled up the car in a nearby village, and set out on our path deep in to the west.
Látrabjarg
Látrabjarg is a cliff in the west that ranks as one of the most sought-after bird watching destinations in the world. This cliff is found on the western-most point of the Westfjords, which also makes it the western-most point of the country itself. Over two million birds of various sorts make this cliff their home in the summer months, feeding on the fish of the ocean. One of the most fascinating birds that can be seen here is the Puffin – a bird with a beautifully coloured beak. The journey to get here is not for the faint of heart as one must traverse steep, narrow, and unpaved winding roads where a drop off the edge would surely result in a tragic ending. Nonetheless, we enjoyed this location and the drive added appreciation to the rewarding journey.
Raudisandur Beach
Raudisandur Beach was our final adventure prior to traveling back to Reykjavik in preparation for our return home. This place was magical! After a short trek, away from a nearby parking lot, we made it to an area where the water forms a thin layer over the sand creating a mirror effect reflecting the sky. The place was crowded with absolute silence, and every step in the sand disappeared after a short moment. We walked far enough in to the beach to a point that we were surrounded by the mirror-like ground. Looking around, one side offered a landscape of powerful mountains, while on the other side the horizon looked like an endless sky… This created a mesmerizing feeling of wonder that is difficult to describe.
Push to Reykjavik IKEA and End of Trip
Remember those hot dogs I mentioned earlier on the trip? The crave for them became real on our drive back (that crunchy fried onion topping got me). After checking the store hours and realizing that we had an extremely tight timeline to make it back, we quickly set our sights on Reykjavik. We were now on a mission. What would have been a significantly longer drive back became a sprint that got us to the store with 10 minutes to spare. The cook was not thrilled as we stormed in while he began his cleaning process, but we got our fix.
After getting our fix of those glorious hot dogs, we had to get ready for our departure. We stopped in a small town between Reykjavik and Lagoon Car Rental to pack and enjoy our last moments in this beautiful country. We felt very thankful for having the opportunity to see what we did, for catching a week of fantastic weather, and for making the decision to come here.
Details
Disclaimer: this trip is NOT cheap. Iceland is the world’s fourth most expensive country – largely due to its reliance on imports. Only about 1% of the country is arable (farmable), and it imports most of its oil. Although prices for produce are expensive year-round, summer tends to be the peak of the tourist season as weather conditions become more desirable. This typically drives prices up on accommodations and rentals in the summer by almost 300% in comparison to the winter.
Flight: ~$950 Total Round Trip
Company: Delta
We picked great flights with a layover in Minneapolis from Winnipeg both ways using Delta. The flight to Minneapolis was roughly one hour, with a three-hour layover. The flight to Iceland from Minneapolis was roughly six hours flying into the Keflavik airport. Our flight back followed a similar pattern. We were happy with the service from Delta and would highly recommend them. This is a standard price, leaning more towards the lower end. I recommend using Google Flights to find the best deals.
Car Rental: ~$1100 Total for Seven Days
Company: Lagoon Car Rental
We chose to rent a vehicle to get around the country instead of doing tour buses / tour package. This is by far the best way to maximize your time and get around. We picked a Hyundai Elantra to maximize fuel efficiency and minimize our rental expense. A 2WD vehicle is the least expensive rental option, and this price includes the full insurance package (highly recommended).
We received a deal on our rental as we made the reservation a few months in advance. Be sure to give yourself plenty of time to reserve a car as summer gets extremely busy (Over a million tourists visit each year). If you wait until the last moment you will significantly over-pay on an already high price tag or there will be no vehicles available. We used a company called Lagoon Car Rental and were very pleased with the service. A staff member picked us up from the airport upon our arrival and drove us to their facility about ten minutes out.
Additional Options
4WD (4 Wheel Drive): Most of the 4WD vehicles are manual transmission, keep this in mind in case you are considering renting an SUV. The benefit of renting this type of vehicle is that you gain access to off-road paths that are called “F-Roads” that a 2WD vehicle is not allowed to drive to. Off-roads in Iceland can be intense, and some require the car to pass through some depth of water (meaning that the car’s engine and set up needs to be waterproofed). Insurance typically doesn’t cover any damage caused by driving off-road, therefore I recommend exercising caution as damage can get expensive. The downside to this option is that it will consume more fuel than a 2WD car, the rental will be more expensive, and thus you won’t gain any additional benefit unless you specifically have a few destinations in mind that require this type of car. (There are tour buses/jeeps that you can access if there is a specific F-Road access destination you seek to fulfill. This may be cheaper than renting a 4WD).
Camper Vans: Most camper vans are manual transmission. These vehicles are really functional and serve as a common option for people who wish to explore the country. We were initially planning to rent one of these, but ended up choosing to invest in good camping gear instead (as a long-term investment). Although I am unable to recommend any specific company for rental, there are 2-3 main companies that dominate the market as you will see when you google it. I would highly recommend this option for those who appreciate maximizing comfort without paying for accommodation. The only downside to this option in comparison to a 2WD smaller vehicle is fuel consumption.
Fuel: ~$300 Total
Companies: Olis and OB
Lagoon Car Rental provided us with a discount fob that saved us ~15% with the listed companies. Gas is very expensive in Iceland, sitting at about 240 Icelandic Krona per Litre (~$3.00/L), therefore we enjoyed the small Hyundai Elantra, only having had to top up about four times covering the entire ring road and bottom half of the Westfjords. Our fuel efficiency was sitting at roughly 6.7km/100L. I would expect the camper van to consume 200-300% more, and the 4WD somewhere in the 100-200% mark.
Accommodation: ~$70 Total for Campsites (Tent & Car)
Companies: N/A
We chose to minimize the cost of our trip by saving on accommodation. During the summer, prices to stay at a hotel/hostel/inn ranges from $180-$350 per person per night. There are many campsites available throughout the country that provide facilities (bathroom, showers) for a fee of roughly $15 per person per night. We only ended up using our tent to camp for the first two nights paying the fee, and then we figured out a way to sleep comfortably in our car and parking for free – using the facilities in stores or gas stations. The main driver behind the decision to sleep in the car was the weather. We experienced a few windy and rainy days and found the tent set-up to be cumbersome given our fast pace. Paying for campground and using the tent would have been fine if we stayed in one location for a few days. This is where a camper would have been handy for maximum comfort.
Food & Water: ~$220 Total for Necessary Food
Companies: Backpacker’s Pantry (Atmosphere) and Assorted Icelandic Grocery Stores
Disclaimer: This does not include two dinners during which we ate out that we do not deem as absolutely necessary. Food in Iceland is very expensive. Do not let the low cost I propose mislead you. For perspective, an average burger with a side of fries costs $35-50. The bill can get very high very quickly if you eat out for every meal.
We were glad that we brought freeze-dried food that made up most of our dinner meals. We purchased seven meals of various flavours at Atmosphere in Canada for about $12 per meal (each pack provides two servings). These meals served as a nutritious and surprisingly tasty dinner. We would not have been able to achieve our low cost in this category if we hadn’t prepared in advance.
We brought our own coffee, and had oats for breakfast. The only grocery purchases that we made included Icelandic Skyr yogurt, and a few apples. We used a “Pocket Rocket” with a small butane canister to cook our food. We boiled our water inside a small 1L camping pot (Tomshoo brand on Amazon came in at around ~$35 together with the pocket rocket).